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Sock Club Info

What is Sock Club? It’s your chance to explore hand knit socks with us and it starts today!

Sock Club Updates will be posted here. Latest Update 4:30 pm Monday Step 8

When: Mondays at 3 pm and 6 pm ET on the ATTY Zoom (password 796058)

What do you need:

  • tape measure

  • paper and pencil for measuring our feet

  • sock yarn (or yarn you want to make socks out of)

  • sock needles of your choice. (Don’t know which needles? We’ll talk about that a lot.)

  • you don’t need to sign up, just log in to Zoom

  • no purchase required to participate, but if you need equipment use the code SockClub in the Good for Socks category on our web site one time to get 10% off of the listed price.

The goal of Sock Club is to encourage everyone who wants to to make hand knit socks and along the way to become more confident in all the knitting techniques that socks can teach.

How:

  • Making socks together for ourselves (and deserving others!)

  • Following patterns

  • Creating our own sock recipes

  • Using the yarn we have or that gorgeous sock yarn we always wanted.

 

First pattern is Every Which Way by Yarn Indulgence (free on Ravelry) Call us if you need to print a copy!

We are using the book Custom Socks: Knit to fit your Feet by Kate Atherley as a reference

Some other reference books have been suggested and include:

The Sock Knitter's Handbook by Charlene Schurch and Beth Parrott

 

First Step Measure both of your feet in inches to the nearest 1/8th

A Foot Circumference - around the ball of the foot

B Ankle Circumference - at narrowest part of leg above anklebones

C Gusset Circumference - Around foot as close to leg as possible

D Foot Length - lay ruler on floor

E Low Calf Circumference - measure around the leg 6 inches off the floor

F Heel Diagonal Circumference - wrap tape measure around the furthest part of the heel and where top of the foot meets the leg

G Toe length - longest toe

 

Second Step Make a gauge swatch

Cast on 40 stitches with the yarn and needles you want to use

Knit one row and slide the stitches to the other end of the needle

Carry working yarn loosely behind the stitches and knit across the stitches

To prevent edge stitches from being too loose, consider knitting the first and last stitches through the back loop

Work 3 inches of Stockinette stitch this way (knitting all stitches every row from the right edge of the smooth side of the swatch)

Work 1/2 inch of K1P1 ribbing,

Bind off loosely in pattern

Cut yarn if you can and trim to 2 inches

Submerge in cool water until saturated

Blot dry without stretching or twisting the swatch

Air Dry

If your swatch is rolling up, you can steam it with an iron (not touching) or press it through a damp cotton or linen cloth so that it will lie flat.

 

Third Step Counting, Measuring and Calculating  (Stitch and Row Gauge info below has been updated)

Today’s goal is to cast on the sock, but first there is some math to do.

A calculator and a ruler or rigid tape measure will help a lot for this step
Here are the numerical equivalents for your measurements to the nearest 1/8th inch:
1/8 = .125
2/8 = 1/4 = .25
3/8 = .375
4/8 = 1/2 = .5
5/8 = .625
6/8 = 3/4 = .75
7/8 = .875

1. Convert all of your foot measurements to the nearest thousandth place

For example, 8 7/8 = 8.875

2. Count and record the number of rows in the 1/2 inch ribbed section and in the 3 inch Stockinette section

ie. my swatch had 6 rows of ribbing and 38 rows of stockinette - remeasure here in case blocking changed your measurements of height-mine did!

3. Measure horizontally and across the stockinette stitch center of the swatch to the nearest 1/8th inch and convert as the foot measurements. Pause a moment: Do your beginning and end stitches seem untidy?  Consider omitting them and only measure across the more even 38 internal stitches!

4. Stitch Gauge = Number of Stitches / Width in inches to the nearest 1/8th inch across middle of the stockinette section. Record your gauge swatch, you may need it again.

ie. 38 st/ 4.125 inches across my swatch = 9.21 stitches per inch

Row gauge = Number of Rows in stockinette section / height in inches to the nearest 1/8th inch in the center of the stockinette section. Record your Row gauge, you will need it again.

1e. 38 rows/2.75 inches = 13.8181 rows per inch

5. Calculate your Sock Cuff size for Top Down socks by multiplying Ankle circumference (B) x 0.9 = Cuff circumference (Remember negative ease?)

ie. Right Ankle Circumference is 8.875 inches x 0.9 = 7.988 inches Cuff Circumference

6. Multiply your cuff circumference by your gauge for the ideal number of stitches, then choose a number near it divisible by 8 or 4.

ie. 7.988 inches x 9.21 st/in = 73.56 stitches, my choices need to be divisible by 4 or 8, so 72 stitches.

7. Repeat for your other ankle circumference, ie 8 x 0.9 = 7.2 inches; 7.2 inches x 9.21 st/in = 66.31, so I might consider making the Left sock smaller on top than the Right, and cast on 64 stitches, or make them interchangeable and do 72 here as well.

 

Fourth Step Casting on with a stretchy cast on 

Watch videos for how to if you have never done a stretchy cast on like the Long Tail (aka sling shot) or German Twisted (aka Old Norwegian)

Long Tail Cast on with Happyberry

German Twisted with Andrea Mowry

Cast on your stitches and arrange on your needles to begin the cuff.  Twisted rib literally twists (=tightens) each of the knit stitches by knitting each through the back leg or loop.  If you want a looser cuff, omit the twist and knit normally for the ribbing.

Work ribbing for 1 inch.

Stop here and try on your sock if possible (double pointers may want to transfer to a waste yarn to get their foot through).

 

Fifth Step Knitting the leg

Begin leg and continue in the stockinette and garter panel, stopping when you are ready to work the heel.

We have learned that on the leg, the pattern does not give instructions for the remainder of your stitches in the Garter Panel section.  (who knew?!)

Here are corrected directions:

Leg - Stockinette with Garter Panel

Round 1 (not Rows!) Knit all stitches

Round 2 Knit 8, 10, 12* Place marker, knit 12, place marker. Knit remaining stitches.

Round 3 Knit 8, 10, 12* slip marker, purl 12, slip marker. Knit remaining stitches.

Round 4 Knit all stitches

Repeat rounds 3 and 4 to desired length (4 - 6 inches)

End halfway on Round 3 - stopping before working the second half of your stitches in preparation of beginning the heel flap. 

Stop here and try on your sock if possible (double pointers may want to transfer to a waste yarn to get their foot through).

*If you are not doing one of the three sizes given, to get the first number before the marker: divide your cast on number by 2 (ie 80/2 = 40) then subtract 12 (the garter panel) and divide by 2 again (28/2=14) So for the people casting on 80, Knit 14, place marker, knit 12, place marker, knit to end of round.  If you have trouble with this, text or call me at 216-543-2980 but don't expect much after 9 pm or before 8 am.

 

Sixth Step More math to adjust fit over the heel and foot

Now is the time to see if you need to adjust the fit of your heel because you can shorten or extend your heel to fit better by doing fewer or more repeats of Rows 1 & 2, and add or subtract foot stitches by decreasing in the gusset down to just the right size.

1. Check if we need to change the number of stitches for the foot, calculate the number of stitches for your foot by multiplying Foot (A) x 0.9 x Stitch Gauge (see Step Three above), rounding to the nearest even number. Record this number. If your result is different by more than 8 stitches, you may want to plan to do the foot on the new number.

2. Next, divide your Gusset (C) by Foot (A), if the result is greater than 1.1 you have a higher arch, less than 1.1 means a lower arch.

With a higher arch, lengthening the heel flap, thus increasing the number of gusset stitches will help.  A lower arch will need a shorter heel flap and fewer gusset stitches.

To determine an ideal number of heel rows, take your Sock circumference multiplied by your Row Gauge (see Step Three above) multiplied by 0.3. Round the result to the closest even number.  This is your ideal number of heel rows.  Record and compare to the pattern for your size. 

 

Seventh Step Slipped Stitch Heel flap

In this pattern the heel flap stitches are the second half of the stitches that have only been worked in plain stockinette so far and they will be worked back and forth. We stopped the leg after working row 3 to the half way point.

1. Prepare your stitches to be worked flat:

If you are working:

magic loop or on two circulars, your stitches should already be divided in half.

small circular needle, you can leave the first half of your stitches on the small circular as a holder, and work the heel flap on any type of needle of the same size: straight, double point or longer circular.

double pointed needles - make sure the first half stitches are held on one or two needles and the second half stitches can be worked back and forth with 2 needles.

3. Work the flap as follows remembering to always slip stitches as though to purl

Row 1 (not Round!!) (Right side) *Slip one, knit 1* repeat across all stitches in the row. Turn to work wrong side of these stitches.

Row 2 (Wrong side) Slip first stitch only, purl remaining stitches to end. Turn.

Repeat Rows 1 & 2 as directed (15, 16,17 times) or as calculated in the Sixth Step #2 above.

Stop here and try on your sock if possible (double pointers may want to transfer to a waste yarn to get their foot through).

 

Eight Step Turning the Heel

The heel turn is the step that makes sock knitting different from all the rest.  We will now use simple steps to CHANGE DIRECTION with our knitting, RIGH IN THE FABRIC of the sock.  All caps because this is what probably made knitting a desirable skill from the beginning, you can't make socks that stay up out of woven fabric.

Different methods and shapes are possible, but we are going to stick with our pattern here and create the base of our heel with back and forth reverse stockinette stitches in a trapezoidal shape, sometimes called a French heel. That means still rows not rounds and the side of the fabric facing outward will be the purl side NOT the knit side. Heel flap number adjustments are as follows 24, 26, 28 (30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40) Bold numbers are the 3 sizes as written.

Row 1: Purl across 15, 15, 17 (17, 19, 19, 20, 20, 22) sts, p2tog, p1, Turn.

Row 2: Sl1, move yarn to back before next stitch, knit 7, 5, (5, 7, 5 , 7, 5, 7), sts, ssk, k1, Turn.

Row 3: Sl1, purl to 1 stitch before the gap created by the turn in the previous row, p2tog, p1, Turn.

Row 4: Sl1, move yarn to back before next stitch, knit to 1 stitch before the gap created by the turn in the previous row, ssk, k1, Turn.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all stitches have been worked, ending after a Row 3 if possible. There should remain 16, 16, 18(18, 20, 20, 22, 22, 24) stitches. (If you end after a Row 4, turn and knit back on all stitches to the end of the heel turn.)

 

Ninth Step Picking up stitches along the heel flap

 

Tenth Step Working the Gusset

Eleventh Step Working the foot

Twelfth Step Toe decreases and finishing.